BVLGARI key fob
The next day, I woke up at the crack of dawn due to the jet-lag. I came out to the outdoor patio and took some pictures. The scenery in the early morning was truly stunning. It was calm, open, and out of touch from the toxic world. Looking at the reflection of the frangipani tree on the calm waters of the pool was a therapy in itself. I soaked up the clean and calm feelings as much as I could. Like a dry sponge soaking up water.
The foyer
View from the outdoor patio early in the morning
Reflection on the pool
I’ll give you a short tour on our Villa. Once you enter the front gate of the villa, there is a foyer/mini garden that leads to the outdoor area, where there is a table, sun deck + sun chairs, and a mini pool. Then once you enter the door to the inside, a half is bedroom, and another half is bathroom. The bedroom is furnished with the clean white linen sheets, daily changing fresh fruits to munch, and the Bang & Olufsen TV and sound system along with their DVD collection (DVDs are not in the room, but you can take out 5 at a time at no charge). The bathroom is as big as any studio apartment in NYC. It has a large shower area, then a huge Kohler tub, and the outdoor shower area as well. In addition, all the complimentary toiletries are from the Bvlgari’s own Eau parfumée au thé vert (Green tea scented water) collection. I tried taking an early morning bath with the water steeped with tea bath salt – it was heavenly with the delicate smell of dried ginger, tea leaves, and dried flowers. To be honest, I think I was just overwhelmed by the sheer luxury of the place. I mean, I’ve been to nice places before, but this resort was on another level. So if I sound like I’m like a little kid at F.A.O., bear with me for a bit – I’m just simply overwhelmed myself.
Courtyard to the restaurant
Bvlgari has two restaurants: Il ristorante and Sankar. Il ristorante is an Italian cuisine, and Sankar is a traditional Balinese cuisine. Since the breakfast is served at Sankar for all guests, we called our butler for a buggy ride to Sankar. All the butlers there are super friendly and super polite. They have this friendly way of ending any sentence with ‘ya?’ For instance, when you get off a buggy to go to the breakfast, they will say “Have a nice day, ya?” or as they drop you off at the beach, they will ask “You are going to the beach, ya?” It’s not only the facilities but the people and their hospitality that really complete the experience at the Bali Bvlgari.
Breakfast pastry basket
All kinds of fresh tropical juices
Freshly brewed coffee with milk
When we got to the breakfast, the staff welcomed us and seated us in the corner outside where all we could see was the ocean. As we sat down, we were given a menu. The breakfast consists of two: the cold item and the hot item. Aside from the unlimited beverages and the breakfast pastries, you can have one of each from both hot and cold items. I got coffee with milk and yogurt to begin with. And after being informed that I can order as many freshly prepared juices as I want, I also ordered a glass of guava juice. The coffee was great. It was deep with medium body, but not bitter nor acidic. Just the way I like it. Oh, but the fresh juices were something else. I ended up having guava, mango, papaya (my favorite!!!!!), and passion fruit. I mean, I could eat them time after time. They were deliciously fantastic.
Passion fruit
Snake fruit
Snake fruit -bitten
Speaking of the local fruits, they had the usual suspects – papaya, mango, watermelon, passion fruit, etc. I didn’t even know what passion fruit really looked like until I had one in Bali. It looks like a dinosaur egg on the outside, but inside is the yummy sweet and sour jumble of encapsulated seeds. The seeds add a crunch to the jelly like texture. Unlike the passion fruit which I’ve heard of many times, there was a piece of fruit in mystery that I didn’t recognize, so called a snake fruit. Snake fruit is called Salak in the local language, but due to its scaly peel that resembles the snake skin, it got its nickname ‘snake fruit.’ It’s an indigenous Balinese fruit. It looks like a big clove of garlic on the outside, but tastes like a hard crunchy apple with a slight bit of nuttiness + acidity, and it has a big seed kernel inside. At first, I didn’t like the taste of it as much, but the more I ate it, the more I grew to like it. It’s rich in fiber and vitamins. If I had the same selection of the tropical fruits available to me, I would eat them all day and everyday. Oh how I love thee.
Bubur Ayam (Rice porridge with chicken)
Balinese cuisine is influenced by Indian/Pan Asian cuisine (like thai). At the first breakfast, I had Bubur Ayam. ‘Bubur’ is rice porridge, and ‘ayam’ is chicken. Rice porridge with chicken. It was accompanied by curry chicken, vegetable chips, and a sweet and spicy soy sauce that locals call as ketchup (in reality, it sounds a lot more like “keh-chiahp”). The soy sauce itself is quite sweet, but the tiny bird chilies they put in have some serious, serious kick to them. The otherwise bland porridge tasted actually tasty with the sauce.
Mie goreng (Fried noodles)
Sambal sauce
On the second day, I had mie goreng. ‘Mie’ is noodles and ‘goreng’ means fried. Chinese-like simple pan fried noodles. Unlike my initial expectation, the dish was not greasy at all. It was pan fried with spinach-like local greens, eggs, seafood, and chicken. It is such a hearty breakfast. I had it with the sambal sauce which added the right amount of kick to it. Sambal sauce is used a lot in Indonesia, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and the countries alike in place of fresh chili peppers. It’s spicy but not overly spicy like those tiny bird chilies in the “ketchup.” Going back to the dish itself, I thought to myself how wonderful of a take-out it would make. It’s such a hearty, light, but filling and comforting food. Perfect for a lazy solo night in. I ended up licking the plate clean. It was that good.
Nasi goreng merah (Fried red rice)
For the third morning, I had nasi goreng merah which means fried red rice. ‘Nasi’ being rice, ‘goreng’ fried, and ‘merah’ red. It reminds me of the Korean bibimbop, or even Korean fried rice because of the perfectly cooked sunny side up placed on top of the rice. Now that I think of it, the Indonesian cuisine is also quite similar to east Asian cuisine, like Chinese or Korean. Fried rice was flavorful and light, just like the fried noodles. Purely speaking of a personal preference, I liked the fried noodles better. What got me was how light they tasted even though they’re fried.
Soto udang pesmol (Shrimp pesmol soup)
After eating so many yummy dishes at Sangkar, I started wondering how they’re made and who is behind it. Luckily, I was able to visit their kitchen where all the magic happens. It was a very last minute request, but the staff kindly prepared a quick mini demo class for us. The award-winning chef Wayan Wicaya, who holds an executive sous chef title and is a firstborn of the family, showed us how to make a light sweet and sour Javanese soup made with prawns and coconut milk called “soto udang pesmol.” ‘Soto’ means soup, ‘udang’ shrimp, and ‘pesmol’ a kind of seasoning.
Before I get into the recipes, I want to point out an interesting fact on naming in Bali. I learned this through Elizabeth Gilbert’s famed book “Eat, pray, love,” but it’s really true. Traditionally, parents name their kids between four names – Wayan (or Putu), Made, Nyoman, or Ketut. It means, first born, second born, third born, and fourth born in that order. In most cases, the Balinese first names will fall within these four, but of course there is an exception. So I asked myself what if there are more children than just four in the family? One of the butlers actually told me that in such cases, it goes back to the starting point. But instead of just naming the child Wayan, he or she will often be called Wayan Balik which means the first born again. Well, long story short, this is how I recognized right away that the chef Wicaya was a firstborn. Such a fascinating custom.
Ingredients for the soup
Going back to the recipes, there are two parts to the soup – the broth and the prawns. Both of them are based on the pesmol seasoning, which needs chili peppers, shallots, lime leaves, salam leaves, lemongrass, garlic, ginger, galangal, turmeric, and candlenuts. Prawns are peeled and skewered with the lemongrass stick, so it’s ready to be marinated.
Chopped finely
Saute-ing
Bumbu pesmol
All the ingredients need to be finely chopped. You need to saute shallots and garlic first, then put in the rest of the chopped up spices in vegetable oil, or olive oil. Then stir it until all the ingredients become soft. Pour in some chicken stock and let them simmer for 10 minutes. Once the liquid reduces down, pour the hot mixture into the blender and blend. Return the paste and saute it until it becomes a thick paste, which will now be called bumbu pesmol.
Marinated prawns
Prawns being grilled
Once the bumbu pesmol is prepared, take the skwered prawns and marinate it with the paste. Then return the rest of the paste to the soup pan, add some chicken stock, then bring it to a boil. After 10 minutes, reduce the heat, add coconut milk and simmer until it achieves the right consistency. Once the broth is done, take the marinated prawns and grill them just until they’re cooked through (but not too long so it doesn’t become too chewy).
Soup is almost ready
To assemble the soup, put in chopped haricot vert, bean sprouts, diced tomato, and corn kernels into a clean bowl. Place the grilled prawns, and pour in the broth over it. Once you garnish the top with julienned chili pepper, lime leaves, and fried shallot, the soup is done and ready. Unlike some Indian dishes that are prepared from a mixture of dried powdered spices,the soto udang pesmol is made with the fresh local spices. No wonder why it’s a simple yet plain satisfying. It’s creamy, light, spicy, and sweet, all in one bite. I finished the soup to the last drop, standing in one corner of the kitchen. It was truly an amazing experience for me where I got to see the magic happen before my eyes. I loved my mini demo class, and couldn’t thank enough the friendly and kind chef Wicaya.
Kudeta in Kuta celebrating 10 yrs
The hip dining room
That night, my sister and I took the blue bird taxi (blue bird taxi is your best bet amongst the many cabs in Bali) to get to Seminyak. Seminyak is a hip area in Kutu where many Aussie surfers hang out. There are many hip boutiques, stores, restaurants, and clubs, etc. Kudeta is been a solid establishment in Bali for 10 years now – it’s a total hot spot where you can have very decent food (albeit the small food portion and $$$$) to a club/lounge music and a great ambiance with the ocean front. It felt like I was dining in the meatpacking district in NYC, only with the palm trees and the ocean around it. The food we had was very good, but we were done with everything fairly quickly – we were starving at that point, and the portions weren’t so big. After we were done, I tried to catch a cab back to the hotel. But I almost got into a fight. As it turns out, at Kudeta, they offer a car service that goes by the fixed rate, which is about twice more what it’ll be going by the metered rate. The guys over there were trying to hustle us and negotiate with us, but I walked out of the place calmly and hailed a metered cab. I ended up paying a little less than the half of what I would have paid if I took the fixed rate taxi from Kudeta. I felt proud of myself for knowing what to expect, and knowing how to go about it. I guess they don’t say that knowledge is power for nothing.
Well, even though I wrote a lot on Bali, I still have some more interesting things to write in the next entry, “Welcome to Bali part III.” So don’t go anywhere and come back soon!